Backing Off

We had big plans to climb the South Buttress Right of Mount Moran this weekend. It is supposedly the highest quality rock in the Tetons and would have been our hardest climb in the area to date at 5.11 and 7 pitches. The climb sounds alluring, but the approach and the descent sound like significant obstacles. You begin by rowing 90 minutes across Leigh Lake. The remaining approach includes bushwhacking along a faint and supposedly hard to find trail. A friend with quite a bit of experience spent 5 hours trying to get to the base of the climb on her first attempt. By the time they arrived, it was too late in the day to climb and they returned home.

So, when a NOLS drop off delayed our departure, and the idea of paddling across the lake at midnight loomed in our heads, we had to make the difficult decision to change plans. We had hoped to spend the night at the base of the climb, but this was becoming out of the question. Surprisingly, it was hard to "bail" when everything was packed, a backcountry camping permit in hand, a dogsitter, etc. But, in retrospect, I think we made the right decision. Phil and I still climbed the classic Aerial Boundaries in Death Canyon on Saturday. And, well, we got to safely sleep in our own bed all weekend! The South Buttress of Moran isn't going anywhere and we will hopefully do it this summer.

I am confirmed in our decision upon hearing of the tragic loss of an Exum Guide this weekend while soloing the Grand, a much easier climb and one well within the limits of this climber. There is always the threat of extreme consequences to your decisions out here, and part of our learning process is learning when not to proceed. Sore and tired on Sunday, I got to hear Lyle Lovett at the Targhee Music Festival and enjoy BBQ sandwiches in the backyard at sunset. Life is good!