I really wanted to climb in the Tetons on the 4th. So, I rallied Phil out of bed, who was totally knackered from doing Caveat Emptor in the Tetons the day before with Nate. We headed to GTNP with less than an alpine start, and I promised to try to lead every pitch of Baxter's Pinnacle, a 5 pitch classic in Cascade Canyon (much easier than Caveat Emptor!)It was a gorgeous day, and the park was very busy. We took the boat across Jenny Lake in an effort to start and finish the route before possible afternoon showers. As with the Snaz, nasty clouds and a smattering of rain came as we began the first pitch. Apparently this is common, and it is important to mix caution with hasty decisions. As with the Snaz, we kept going, and the small storm blew on by. It is hard to tell what is coming at you when the weather arrives, as it comes from the west and is largely blocked by the Tetons. So, you can be enjoying balmy skies in Jackson whilst dark clouds of doom are just about to cross the Tetons and splatter you!
I am excited to say that I did lead every pitch and both felt comfortable and enjoyed it. I confess that it has taken a little while to get used to the Alpine setting: high exposure, loose rock, scant protection, limited retreat options, weird weather, long approaches, etc. But, once you feel good on these kind of routes, they are really a blast, although always to be respected. Baxter's Pinnacle is a very popular route, so there were parties in front of and behind us, though we really only had to wait a little on the final pitch. Loose rock abounds, and one bunch of rocks sounded more like firecrackers than falling rock as it plummeted down the descent gully. From the summit, you have great views of Jackson Lake, Jenny Lake, and the valley that is Jackson Hole. The descent was not too bad, although quite loose. I feel myself getting more methodical and less frantic on these hairy descents.
I convinced Phil not to take the ferry back to the car, and we walked the 2+ miles around the lake to the car. It is a serious temptation for climbers to be able to forfeit 3/4 of the approach via boat! But, we were glad to skip it, as the extensive line was reminiscent of a new roller coaster at Disneyland. It would have been fun to do some people watching among these "hikers" though!
We got home at a reasonable hour and rallied to go to a barbecue in Victor. We even stayed up long enough to see some fun, albeit illegal fireworks. This is no small thing, as it doesn't get dark until pretty late here! The Knotty Pine was thumping with an outdoor band as we headed home for some much needed sleep. Hope you had a good 4th!!

Saturday, July 5, 2008
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